Update:
Well I thought that it would be easy to remove the forms but like many of my thoughts they were half baked. I used a grinder to cut the fiberglass edges and then removed all of the screws. Unfortunately the wood would not separate from the Seacast. Grrrr. I was miffed. I know it said that the stuff would not bond to wood! With much effort I managed to remove the large piece of plywood that I used for the rear of the transom. Trying to get the front forms out was a whole different story. It just would not peel off! So I went back and re-read the directions hoping that it would give me a clue on how to get it off.

Well there was a clue but I was a bit late and more than a dollar short. In black and white the instructions say to use parting spray before pouring the mixture. What about not bonding to the wood and the insistent reminders to remove all of the wood from the rotted transom? Well it seems it does not BOND to wood but it can STICK to it.

It took me the rest of the week to get all of the wood off using a crowbar, a hammer, and two chisels. In the process I chipped my forearm, lost a fingernail, received numerous cuts and bruises, and swore a lot. Oh, and I drank a case of beer.

Update:
Not a real work update but something I consider neat. I was reading on www.boatfix.com where someone wanted to know how to repair a transom. With my recent trials and tribulations I made a reply and posted some pictures of my Seacast results. I actually got praise for work done well!!!:)

Update:
Had to go back to Fiberglass Services and get more resin and supplies. While I was there I asked a lot of questions and got a lot of advice. (Thanks guys!) Also ended up buying a sheet of Coosa board ($200), a roll of fiberglass 1 ½ Oz mat, another fiberglass roller, (since I forgot to clean the first one and it was resined solid) and more MEK.

I intend on glassing in the transom this weekend.

Update:
I ended up doing honey-dos so lost a weekend. I used alternating layers of mat and roving on the transom. I was careful to do it the right way this time. I wet out a solid layer of mat, then a layer of roving, another layer of mat, and a final layer of roving. Four layers all done before anything dried. It was not as easy as it sounds. It was very hard to get the 24 Oz roving to stay in the corners. It wanted to bubble and stick up. My tenacity paid off though. It came out very well!

I posted photos again on www.boatfix.com and again got praise for work done well. (I think I like these guys!)

Update:
I glassed in all of the bulkheads. (again) This time I did it right. I ground the hull so that hairs where evident, cleaned it with acetone, and layered mat and then roving completely over each piece to the hull. Not only has it pass my original punt/kick test, I found that it holds water very well.

The cover blew off in a storm day before yesterday and each section had varying amounts of water in it. Unfortunately I do not have a pump and ended up siphoning the water out from the rear. That means I had to siphon from one compartment to the next until it was in the rear compartment where it could be siphoned out the live well hole. Fun, Fun.

 

 


Seacast results


Seacast frome left


Seacast from right


Four layers of glass


The other side


Transom from left


Complete!!!!

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